The F&BJ 10 Best Wines
of '98
By S. Clemens
1997
St. Valentin, Alto Adige, Sauvignon:
Simply the best Sauvignon Blanc of my experience. Perfect balance,
structure and high pitched gooseberry fruit. Imported by Brian Larky
of Napa. $20.00. Phone 707-257-7453
1994
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Fay Napa ValIey Cabernet Sauvignon
$50.00 Stag's Leap's Fay vineyard is a pinnacle of winemaking
in California. Vintage after vintage it ranks as one of the world's
best Cabernets, showing particularly well in mediocre vintages.
With the great 1994 vintage it shies away from excess and focuses
on finesse. Power and restraint, a persistent level of intensity,
and layers of incredible yet subtle complexity. Cedar, cherry,
black currant and French oak, with great length. One of the few
wines worth such a hefty' price tag. Phone: 707-944-2020
1997
Hogue, Columbia Valley, #1 Chenin Blanc
this reminds me of why I'm passionate about wine. The moment the
cork is pulled the aroma fills the room--melon, lime and flower
scents come in waves, with subtle depths and light spice. Crisp,
dry impression (despite 1.5% residual sugar), tart and refreshing.
I can't think of a food this wine wouldn't enhance. Perhaps
the best Chenin of my experience. A great value. 12,000 cases
produced. $7.00
1996
St. Clement, Abbotts Vineyard, Cameros Napa Valley, Chardonnay:
A magnificent achievement, com-bining power
and finesse. The richest Abbotts Vineyard
Chard to date, it serves up spice, toast, cinnamon and pear flavors
cloaked in silk, with perfect balance, and great length.
An excellent value $20.00 Phone:
800-331-8256
1996
William Hill, Napa Valley, Reserve Chardonnay
As smooth and sexy as a Ben Webster sax ballad, this Chardonnay
is the best Davis has produced in a long and distinguished career.
The fruit, a complex melange of melon, tart peach, papaya and
lime, is interwoven with vanilla, subtle smoke and leesy spice.
It swells out of the glass, and all that the nose promises is
fulfilled on the palate. She may spend the rest of her life trying
to duplicate this marvel. Phone 707-433-8268
1997
Sobon Estate, California Shenandoah Valley, Rhone Rose:
Rose is a maligned category, but this one will make doubters sit
up and take notice. A medium-bodied blend of 70% Grenache and
30% Syrah, it has an aromatic floral nose, threshold sweetness,
bright fruit, and an intensely fruity finish. Only 400 cases produced.
$9.00 Phone; 209-245-4455
1995
Pine Ridge, Napa Valley Andrus Reserve:
A Bordeaux style blend that would make a Bordelais weep with envy.
Like Latour in a good year, this is a substantial yet subtle wine,
with firm structure and integrated tannin, showing aromatic cassis,
mint, blackberry and oak spice. Impressive now, it will continue
to develop over the next decade or more. $85.00 Phone: 707-253-7500
1997
Taltarni, Victoria Australia, Sauvignon Blanc:
Spectacular. Great depth and finesse with oodles of varietal character
and lay-ers of complexity. Dried marorum and sage coupled with
intense fruit-citrus, guava-smoke, and spice. Best with veal,
pork, seafood or poultry. Imported by Cbs du Val. $13.00 Phone:
707-259-2200
1996
Archery Summit Arcus Estate, Oregon, Pinot Noir:
Extraordinary finesse. Light ruby color, with layer upon subtle
layer of fruit, dried flowers, leather and spice. Beautifully
balanced, lively and long. Expensive but a real treat. Only 354
bottles produced. Serve with salmon or light curry. 559.00 Phone:
503-854-4300
1994
Domaines Schiumberger, Vin D'alsace, Reserve;
A blend of 80% Pinot Blanc, 10% Riesling and 10% Gewurztraminer,
this is a bizarrely wonderful wine-like sticking your nose into
a big floral bouquet. Toasty, spicy, caramelly with more layers
than a flaky croissant. $18.00 Phone: 877-563-9453
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